{"id":12440,"date":"2025-12-08T09:52:52","date_gmt":"2025-12-08T09:52:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/?p=12440"},"modified":"2025-12-16T10:49:02","modified_gmt":"2025-12-16T10:49:02","slug":"01-12-2025-iquitos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/?p=12440","title":{"rendered":"30\/11-04\/12\/2025  IQUITOS"},"content":{"rendered":"<section class=\"wpb-content-wrapper\"><p>[vc_row][vc_column][vc_gmaps link=&#8221;#E-8_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&#8221; size=&#8221;200&#8243;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_images_carousel images=&#8221;12442,12443,12444,12445,12447,12448,12449,12450,12451,12452&#8243; img_size=&#8221;medium&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<strong>Iquitos (P\u00e9rou) 30 novembre<\/strong> &#8211; 4 d\u00e9cembre 2025 Bora H\u00f4tel. Le d\u00e9part de Lima un peu laborieux avec les milliers de br\u00e9siliens qui engorgeaient l\u2019a\u00e9roport. Le vol, un spectacle : le survol de centaines de km sur la for\u00eat amazonienne. Une sensation d\u2019immensit\u00e9, du vert que du vert. Iquitos une ville hors du temps, 400.000 habitants, aucune route pour y arriver : uniquement l\u2019avion ou une longue travers\u00e9e en bateau. Une chaleur \u00e9crasante, beaucoup de pollution avec des milliers de moto taxis. L\u2019h\u00f4tel Bora, bien situ\u00e9 avec une jolie vue sur le fleuve. Mon dimanche s\u2019\u00e9coule tranquillement dans cette torpeur \u00e9quatoriale. A partir du lundi la qu\u00eate d\u2019informations sur un cargo vers les 3 fronti\u00e8res s\u2019av\u00e8re plut\u00f4t compliqu\u00e9e. Je voudrais planifier mais \u00e0 ces latitudes \u00e7a ne fonctionne pas comme \u00e7a. Tout se fait le jour m\u00eame et encore\u2026 Je prends sur moi, j\u2019accepte enfin je visite le quartier de Belem un environnement \u00e9tonnant arrach\u00e9 au fleuve. Une immense pauvret\u00e9, les maisons sur pilotis d\u00e9munies de tout confort. Une partie de l\u2019ann\u00e9e les rues sont submerg\u00e9es, les habitants remontent dans les \u00e9tages sup\u00e9rieurs, ils se d\u00e9placent en bateau. L\u2019apr\u00e8s midi, je visite un march\u00e9 puis en pirogue je rejoins la rencontre des eaux entre deux fleuves. Une chance immense, je vois les dauphins roses \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres. Le jour suivant, je visite la ville dans tous les recoins, une \u00e9tonnante maison en fer projet\u00e9e apparemment par Gustave Eiffel. Un bateau mus\u00e9e, d\u00e9s mus\u00e9es sur les cultures amazoniennes, des vieilles b\u00e2tisses color\u00e9es, je d\u00e9couvre une ville qui a prosp\u00e8re le 19\u00e8me si\u00e8cle avec le caoutchouc. Des grosses averses les apr\u00e8s-midis avec des tonnerres et des \u00e9clairs qui secouent la foret environnante. Le jeudi arrive, mon d\u00e9part pour le 3 fronti\u00e8res m\u2019intrigue et me fascine. \u00c7a y est je commence la descente du fleuve[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_separator][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<strong>Iquitos (Per\u00f9) 30 novembre &#8211; 4 dicembre 2025<\/strong> Bora Hotel. La partenza da Lima \u00e8 stata un po&#8217; faticosa, con le migliaia di brasiliani che intasavano l&#8217;aeroporto. Il volo \u00e8 stato uno spettacolo: sorvolare centinaia di chilometri di foresta amazzonica. Una sensazione di immensit\u00e0, verde ovunque. Iquitos, una citt\u00e0 fuori dal tempo, 400.000 abitanti, senza strade di accesso: solo in aereo o con una lunga traversata in barca. Caldo opprimente, molto inquinamento con migliaia di mototaxi. Il Bora Hotel, in ottima posizione con una splendida vista sul fiume. La mia domenica \u00e8 trascorsa serenamente in questo torpore equatoriale. Da luned\u00ec in poi, la ricerca di informazioni su una nave cargo per le Tre Frontiere si \u00e8 rivelata piuttosto complicata. Volevo pianificare in anticipo, ma a queste latitudini non funziona cos\u00ec. Tutto si fa in giornata, e anche cos\u00ec&#8230; Mi sono fatto coraggio, alla fine l&#8217;ho accettato, e ho visitato il quartiere di Bel\u00e9m, un ambiente sorprendente scavato nel fiume. Povert\u00e0 immensa, case su palafitte prive di ogni comfort. Parte dell&#8217;anno le strade sono allagate, gli abitanti si trasferiscono ai piani superiori, si spostano in barca. Nel pomeriggio visito un mercato e poi, in piroga, raggiungo la confluenza di due fiumi. Incredibilmente fortunato, vedo dei delfini rosa a pochi metri di distanza. Il giorno dopo, esploro ogni angolo della citt\u00e0, una sorprendente casa di ferro apparentemente progettata da Gustave Eiffel. Una nave museo, musei sulle culture amazzoniche, antichi edifici colorati: scopro una citt\u00e0 che prosper\u00f2 nel XIX secolo con la gomma. Forti acquazzoni nel pomeriggio con tuoni e fulmini che scuotono la foresta circostante. Arriva gioved\u00ec, la mia partenza per la regione delle Tre Frontiere mi incuriosisce e mi affascina. Eccoci qui, inizio la mia discesa del fiume.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_images_carousel images=&#8221;12463,12469,12471,12466,12465,12462,12459,12461,12460,12456,12452,12449,12448,12451,12447&#8243;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n<\/section>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[vc_row][vc_column][vc_gmaps link=&#8221;#E-8_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&#8221; size=&#8221;200&#8243;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_images_carousel images=&#8221;12442,12443,12444,12445,12447,12448,12449,12450,12451,12452&#8243; img_size=&#8221;medium&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Iquitos (P\u00e9rou) 30 novembre &#8211; 4 d\u00e9cembre 2025 Bora H\u00f4tel. Le d\u00e9part de Lima un peu laborieux avec les milliers de br\u00e9siliens qui engorgeaient l\u2019a\u00e9roport. Le vol, un spectacle : le survol de centaines de km [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":12448,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12440","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-adventure"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/PHOTO-2025-12-02-14-41-532.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12440","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12440"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12440\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12643,"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12440\/revisions\/12643"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/12448"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12440"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=12440"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voyagerensemble.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=12440"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}